On a day as bright and clean as a scrubbed deck, I was sitting in a sky-blue fishing boat anchored in a cove just off the coast of southern Puglia, where the heel of the Italian boot points into the Mediterranean. I’d just been for a swim in the translucent water and was eating the coral-colored roe of a sea urchin that, 10 minutes earlier, had been clamped to a rock beneath the waves.
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